From JustLuxe content partner iW Magazine
The Calatrava reference 5224R-001, watch by Patek Philippe and the headliner among the seventeen new watches unveiled during Wonders 2023, scores high for legibility, ease of use and originality.
The new ref. 5224R is a Calatrava model equipped with travel time dual time zone function and 24-hour display.
Arriving among a strong set of debuts in the Aquanet Luce collection (to be covered in future posts), including a highly jeweled Grandmaster Chime and the first annual calendar, this new iteration of Patek Philippe’s travel time dual-time display is paired with an original. Display local time and home time via two centers that turn on a 24-hour circle.
Patek Philippe used a similar 24-hour display, but mostly seen on watches from the distant past. In the early 20th century, Patek Philippe produced a series of Chronometro Gondolo watches for Brazilian retailers Gondolo and Laboreau.
But for the new watch, Patek Philippe has reversed the original design. Instead of placing the midday indication at the traditional 6 o’clock position, Patek Philippe opted to update (and to many, simplify) the display by placing noon at the top of the dial where, it seems, more wearers see when checking. the time
In another nod to simplicity and aesthetics, Patek Philippe has replaced the traditional in-case correction pushers for local time with a new patented correction system that allows the user to pull out the crown.
When dragged to the intermediate position, the local time can be adjusted backwards and forwards in one-hour increments.
To complement these new features, Patek Philippe developed a new caliber 31-260 PS FUS 24H. The movement is an update of Patek Philippe’s 31-260 ultra-thin self-winding base caliber from 2011, which here includes a 24-hour mechanism and a travel time system.
In 2021, Patek Philippe further improved the primary caliber with a new operating frequency of 4 Hz (later housed in the in-line perpetual calendar reference 5236P-001), a twenty percent increase in barrel-spring torque, a mini-rotor in platinum. , and a reduction wheel that couples the self-winding mechanism when manually winding the watch.
The watch’s 42mm rose-gold case beautifully complements a sharp-looking blue dial that Patek Philippe has set with contemporary, high-relief rose gold numerals, hour markers and five-minute cabochons.
The watch is also notable for its liberal use of rose-gold, syringe-type hands, hour markers, and luminous material within the numerals.
Newer in 2023
As mentioned above, Patek Philippe adds an annual calendar to the Aquanot Luce for 2023 to create the annual calendar reference 5261R-001 ($61,506), the first annual calendar in the Aquanot collection.
Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar Reference 5261R-001.
Finished with a very elegant blue-grey dial and attached to a matching strap, the 39.9mm rose gold watch enriches Patek Philippe’s range of complicated women’s watches.
Also for 2023, Patek Philippe added a blue-gray sunburst dial and a navy-blue grained calfskin strap to its distinctive Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph Reference 5924G-001 ($75,699) and a khaki green lacquered dial Travel Time Calatrava Pilot Pilot. added to Reference 5924G-010 ($79,699).
Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph Reference 5924G-001.
Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph, reference 5924G-010.
Patek Philippe has updated its Calatrava references 6007G-001, 6007G-010, and 6007G-011 with a new modern dial style featuring three different finishes, including a black dial and an embossed carbon pattern.
Calatrava reference 6007G-001, one of three color updates in the series.
Each gets new color accents on their respective dials and straps: yellow (6007G-001), red (6007G-010), or sky blue (6007G-011). Each is priced at $37,850.
Patek Philippe also expanded its range of watches for women with the new Calatrava self-winding reference 4997/200R-001, a rose gold, diamond-set watch ($38,441) now featuring a rich purple wave dial pattern finished with fifty layers of translucent lacquer. .
The pictures here do this dial justice as the lacquer finish is superb.
We will discuss additional Patek Philippe 2023 debuts in upcoming posts.