The shirt is a point of departure, its structure and details borrowed as a base to transform an entire stable of menswear—suits, raincoats, active sportswear and reporter jackets. Starting with simplicity, the collection foregrounds the idea of expansion, the amplification of an idea—a paradox between silhouette and materiality, Prada said in a press release.
Prada’s Spring/Summer 2024 menswear collection by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, shown in Milan, explores total physical freedom through clothing design. The collection borrows the structure and detailing of shirts, transforming common menswear staples. Embellishments are three-dimensional and playful, reinventing floral prints and repurposing utility pockets.
Centrally, qualities of lightness and softness are brought to the garment, creating an uneasy relationship between the body and its garment. These concepts permeate every aspect of the clothing – the headband and glasses, made of a single piece, appear like motion capture pieces; Leather bags are unexpectedly soft to the touch.
The silhouettes borrow their lines from masculine suiting, but their structure belies an inherent flexibility. Shirting transitioned construction into tailored clothing, reshaping their archetypal silhouettes with a new fragility. Stitching elements can be suggested over cotton poplin, in true hybrid garments that are understood to exist in a new space within sartorial disciplines.
Evolving the concept of expansion, the decoration is three-dimensional, reinventing the concept of floral print through the application of corsage and fringe, animating the static. Expanding on this concept, utilitarian pockets are detached from their functionality, instead serving as more decorative devices, the release added.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (NB)